酸魅

Date 3月 22, 2007

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滿滿一屋子的話語聲。尚待全部塵埃落定，初始像輪唱，這邊「不要酸的！」，那邊也「不要酸的！」，後來終於匯成混聲合唱了，「不要酸的！」，差些沒把玻璃門窗擠歪。如果不是幻覺，客廳的燈罩彷彿兀自在頭頂上略略微笑。「酸」真的如此刺耳？入耳摧心，以致於全身都快豎起雞皮疙瘩！啊，「酸」，已長期遭到莫名誤解，集體歇斯底里拒絕。
不要酸的，儼然成了一個流動的語境，它意味著獨獨酸不要，其餘的香、甜、苦則可以要。好在咖啡不鹹，但加了糖的咖啡肯定化學變化，已非原酸。咖啡多采多姿的韻味，俱因其「酸」，酸氤出香，酸釋出甜，酸抑住了苦。有沒有人咖啡裡加鹽，胃不好的就可以。
音樂，也不要酸的？鴉雀無聲。恰恰好，就從這裡開始，從「三首形狀像梨子的小品」裡那枚靦腆的梨子敲下第一個音，E‧薩蒂譜寫於上個世紀初，一九○三年四手聯彈的鋼琴曲。梨子削皮入口又水又甜，稍經咀嚼、吞嚥，微酸從味蕾頂端密密麻麻的小孔慢慢浮起。然而訴諸聽覺的幽微，音樂在時間流韻中的酸楚，點點滴滴沿著每一條個別的聽道涓涓蝟集。
守著咖啡，守著火，守著焦黑，守著我。黑色的瞳孔，專注濃稠的汁墨。濃縮咖啡不酸，只應該說它感覺不出酸，它當然還是含酸，它的酸感會是在百分之零點幾以下，或零點零零幾以下，酸潛遁到味覺最最深邃之處，酸已被人們欲擒故縱放逐。這樣的口感係由選用的豆子決定，街上商家端出各自義大利式的豆子，都不約而同把義大利式豆子本土化了，我且替它命名Sino-Italian，它已變調非正點的義大利式豆子，義大利式豆子那有焙那麼重，油光滿面，義大利式豆子充滿南歐風情，驕陽不斷撒在那個神經兮兮的馬斯楚安尼身上，他的演技不是酸酸的？也可以從柴科夫斯基寫於一八八○年的「義大利隨想曲」獲得佐證。曲子裡羅馬兵營那支軍號主題由小號單獨吹奏遠傳而來；威尼斯船夫的嘆息裹著悲壯叼滿憂傷；翡冷翠狂歡節塔蘭泰拉舞曲，要用在治療大型毒蜘蛛塔蘭泰拉致命的噬咬，絕對有效。從冷得半死的地方，去到熱得半死的地方，兩地景緻巨大的置換，創作音樂時的心理素質酸酸的吧。

我常常變換我的居所，

而卻從不輕易遷移感受；

焰火保持愛的嬌嬈，

我保持燃燒。

十七世紀義大利著名冒險家薩爾瓦多‧羅薩寫的四行詩，李斯特①譜入他「旅遊歲月」的第二輯「義大利」裡，這首「羅薩小調」標明勇武的行板，但在興高采烈的行進中，稀稀疏疏若聞，淺酸在風中輕輕飄送。「旅遊歲月」對李斯特而言，等於「浪漫歲月」，然而生活的真實處處抵蝕著浪漫。托物寫情，天上人間；男歡女愛，知己紅顏。
同輯中，佩特拉克②讓李斯特一覽無遺窺看詩人呢喃的沮喪，詩人私密的獨語輻射到作曲家愛情的鍵盤上組成樂句，那樣的愛情堆疊這樣的愛情，出現在佩特拉克詩中的情人已然是現實裡他人之妻，李斯特詫奇的窩心，受寵於愛神無微不至的垂憐，瑪麗夫人與他雙雙私奔廝守十年。李斯特用鋼琴譜寫佩特拉克十四行詩47號、104號以及123號，曲盡愛情繾綣裡的某些撲逆與迷離。這輯鋼琴曲透露的酸感，最後終於也被塔蘭泰拉舞曲速度最急板的快速音群淹沒，無影無蹤。
卞之琳先生的詩「斷章」，彷彿可以說明李斯特譜寫佩特拉克十四行詩的情狀：

你站在橋上看風景，

看風景人在樓上看你。

明月裝飾了你的窗子，

你裝飾了別人的夢。

如今恐怕很難追索義大利式豆子本土化的緣起。耳聞與實際，一旦被型定，再多遲疑，枉然徒增。為了不被這種本土化的義大利式豆子制約，賢者請另覓他途，去探尋濃縮未知的世界。當唱名各式各樣的豆子，交給義式咖啡壺試演，你就會獲得意料之外的驚呼。

誰家有興趣？這裡後現代主義的野人且獻上半曝。你應會同意，這可能算是小小的奢侈，而非大大的浪費。方法即義式咖啡壺煮法進行至擺在火上掀開蓋子，火稍加大，但焰也不宜讓它漫出壺底周延，當黑色瓊漿，逆金屬管奪竄而出，熄火，壺裡的水自沸點上衝，讓水溫姍姍下降，它的勁道隨之趨緩，直至無力而遲滯。這樣的精汁，如果不稱珍品，不知要稱它什麼。

不要酸的，那濃淡如何需索，這可不是濃妝淡抹總是春的雷同類比，怎麼個濃法個人自由決定，好辦。淡呢？最佳境界當然繫於淡而有味，淡而有味游離在濃淡間的游絲邊緣，也宛若你站在低處仰頭，欣賞一位膽大心細技超群倫的藝人，臨淵履薄走在鋼索，幽靜而邈遠。濃本有味，雖說各取所需，但也要濃得恰如其份，方屬正格。總不能還在研磨待煮，同時急著問糖在哪裡，奶粒擺在何處，我往往叮囑，任客來探虛實，這兩樣懇請隨身攜帶，恕不提供招待。

酸，這項佔有人類基本味覺四分之一的領域，焉能輕棄，人們對它卻充滿狐疑，畏懼因而絕避。想想酸感，沾濕雙唇，酸全面從舌片的乳頭出發漫淹至整個上顎與下顎，朝著咽喉傳開密佈，混合口腔裡全部唾液的交融滾翻，接下去酸感就要轉化成細細綿綿的餘甘，當然有些咖啡的甜味獨自運行，另一條主線層次分明，非由酸感轉化而來，甘甜常被攪在一塊，實則應該加以區分、判別。酸後的甘與甜後的甘匯流，甘甘悠長。失去佳妙的酸感，即不能成為一杯絕美的咖啡。

世上那有絕對不酸的咖啡，咖啡的魅惑黑暗之心，即在其酸。淺酸、淡酸、微酸；櫻桃酸、葡萄酸、蘋果酸、黑莓酸。爪哇酸就是歐洲人的膩愛。蘇門答臘的重苦當中，也潛伏隱含著幽酸：那裡的豆子「陳年」，極少宣秘，金鬱的調子等人重啟，重返無言的溫暖。嗜酸者，務要衷情呼喚：哥斯大黎加淺酸的奇幻；瓜地馬拉煙甜與勁酸與澀橘交歡；坦桑尼亞中酸的朦朧招引肯亞亮酸的活潑。萃取咖啡裡的酸體，奪「酸」利若剃刀，明快閃爍。像選美，多麼需要選得標緻、勻稱，選得俊俏。濃酸約取，弱酸多提，儘可能求取均衡的完美。這便只能在濾泡式的淋法中，滴漏見其真章。91℃水溫嚴格遵守，一杯份13克起，不逾25克，兩杯份最佳狀態，咖啡豆絕頂新鮮，寧缺勿濫。如此正好可以讓愛酸人士適得其所，迎擁酸魅。人人都可以在自己適意的方法中，燒煮日月，淋濾星辰，酸裡乾坤任君沈浮。

讓酸沾濕你的雙唇，讓酸從整片舌的乳頭，上顎下顎，朝著咽喉傳開密佈，混和口腔裡全部的唾沫翻滾。法國畫家詩人高克多說，「E‧薩蒂的音樂如匙縫，耳悉目瞄，世界逍遙。」。你願不願驅動你口中黑悠悠的酸魅與薩蒂撐著雨傘的音符，來一次現實與超現實，倩女與幽魂的碰觸。

① “…李斯特在威瑪的教學博得舉世皆知的美譽。他不但是第一個真正的演奏型鋼琴家、背譜演出的第一人，也是第一個創下現稱為“大師課”（Master Classes）的鋼琴老師。這種“大師課”本來就是為他所設，讓他在指導學生的同時享受奉承，滿足李斯特敏感的自我。他的“大師課”並不收費，…”
- 摘錄自《李斯特》/B. Morrison 原著/黎國媛導讀/1999/江蘇人民出版社 -

②佩特拉克（1304-1374）翡冷翠詩人、義大利詩歌之父。1109209787.jpg

Category Posted in 咖啡, 文學, 音樂

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